Up next From Field to Show: A GMC 2500HD Built for Both Work and Play Published on February 24, 2025 Author Will Turner Share article Facebook 0 Twitter 0 Mail 0 Cost-Effective G56 Swap: Insights from a 4th-Gen Dodge Ram Build Firsthand Tips from a facebook group This is what I did/learned while doing a G56 swap on a 4th-gen Mega Cab Laramie. Everyone asks what it costs to do a swap, and this is by far the cheapest way to do it. It’s definitely not the easiest as there is a lot of hard work involved. It may be better for some to just pay $10-15,000 to a shop to get it done, but this is what worked for me. Dissecting the Donor I bought a whole running/driving donor truck: a 2007 Ram 2500 6.7 4×4 with a freshly rebuilt G56 AD and dual disc SB clutch and hydraulics for $6,500. This gave me every single part I needed except for the steering column surround, which I bought on eBay for $53 shipped. First, I stripped the donor truck of everything and sold off all the parts I wouldn’t need. At this point, I had sold 95% of the parts, made back $7,800, and still had roughly $1,000-1,500 worth of parts left to sell. This paid for the swap and any other little parts I ended up buying, although some are unnecessary for just doing the swap:Subscribe Our Weekly Newsletter ♣ New clutch and brake pedal pads: $12 ♣ Case of Amsoil synchromesh fluid: $238 ♣ RTV: $13 ♣ TDS PTO cover: $100 ♣ Transmission temperature gauge: $40 ♣ 718 Heim joint: $35 ♣ Weld-in bungs: $25 ♣ Flap discs: $14 ♣ Zip discs: $5 ♣ Paint: $25 ♣ Transmission jack: $235 ♣ Zip ties: $5 ♣ 4-inch dryer hose: $10 ♣ Wiring connectors: $5 ♣ Carrier bearing: $60 I sold off my 5-inch diameter one-piece aluminum rear driveshaft ($650) since it was 2 inches too long and went back to my original two-piece steel shaft that I cut down 2 inches myself to make it fit. I used the power pedal assembly out of the 3rd-gen, which is a direct fit into the 4th-gen. There are three wires to power the pedals, two that go to 12v, and one ground. It’s pretty simple to wire up. You can even temp power them and just adjust to where you need them if you want. I installed the pedals while it was still an automatic so there was one less thing to do and minimize downtime. Getting Rid of the Problem Pulling the 68RFE is pretty straightforward, as is removing the flexplate and trans adapter from the block. I reused the trans adapter, flywheel, and clutch from the donor truck without any issues. This is a good time to replace your rear main seal if you need to, but I didn’t need to since the engine only had roughly 40,000 miles on it. Cutting into the Cab You’ll want to cut the hole for the shifter in the floor before stabbing the G56. I drilled a bunch of holes from up top, popped out the sheetmetal, and then used a flap disc to clean up the edges and smooth it all out. This let me only sling sparks down through the hole and not shower the inside of my cab. There is more than one way to do it, but this worked for me. I chose to clean up the G56 and the transfer case and paint it before installing. This is not necessary, but it definitely makes it look better. Now it’s the Golden56. I left the transfer case on the back of the G56 and installed it as a whole unit, which Isn’t the easiest but it saves some time. Most of the swap is pretty straightforward, so if you can swap a clutch, then you can do the swap. Wiring info is all over in this group (Cummins Forum, Facebook). Grounding one pin from the auto harness is all it takes to get the truck to start. The hardest/most time-consuming part is building a remote shifter if you want to keep the business console. I used some factory holes already in the floor to mount the base for the remote shifter. One is threaded already, and the other just needed a rivet nut installed to match the other hole. It lines up close to the middle of the “cubby” hole in the console, which is where my shifter comes up from. I had all the parts in my scrap-metal bin and some leftover Heim joints and weld-in bungs from other projects that worked for the remote shifter. There are lots of different ways to do the shifter, but this worked for me. I had to cut out the rear air duct to make the shifter work and replace it with some 4-inch dryer vent ducting. Roughly 4 feet will work. A little foil tape and some zip ties, and it’ll all clear nicely. I chose to use up some leftover Killmat inside the console to help deaden some noise. This is not necessary but every little bit helps. The Expensive Part Isn’t a Hard Part! The most expensive part of the whole swap for me was getting new tuning. I was hoping to reuse my Mini Maxx tuner to flash the computer with a manual file, but it will not work for a 2010-2012 Ram like it does on an 07.5-09. This tuning cost $1,200. This took care of the 4-lo issue that everyone has with the electric-shift P273. The truck is drive-able without tuning, but it will not boost right and will be in limp mode until the tuning is fixed. I drove two hours like this to get it tuned. Not fun, but doable. You could also ship off your computer to a company called ARES in California, and it will VIN program it to be a manual for $100 plus shipping. I didn’t want to risk losing my computer in the mail, and I also figured getting new tuning couldn’t hurt since the Mini Maxx stuff is pretty outdated nowadays. Worth the Work This truck drives completely differently now. I’m averaging about 1-2 mpg better than before with the 68RFE, but I didn’t do the swap for mileage. I pull a 44-foot 5th wheel all over the US and really wanted the low 1st gear for getting the load moving, especially when starting off up an incline and the ability to not have to worry as much about the transmission getting too hot. (I’ll be adding an oil cooler with a pump soon enough once I establish a baseline temp without one.) I’m sure I’m forgetting some things but this is how I did the G56 swap and it gives an idea on how cheap it can be done if you find the right donor truck. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS What should you consider when looking for a rebuilt G56 manual transmission? What to Consider When Looking for a Rebuilt G56 Manual Transmission When searching for a rebuilt G56 manual transmission, several factors should guide your decision to ensure you choose a product that meets your expectations for performance and longevity. Key Considerations: Reliability and Durability Opt for transmissions known for their robust construction and high-quality components. Research brands that have a reputation for delivering long-lasting, performance-tested products. Pricing and Value Compare prices from various suppliers to find a transmission that fits your budget without compromising on quality. Look for options that offer a good balance between cost and the warranty provided. Transmission Options Familiarize yourself with different models like the G56-R1 and G56-R2 to understand the specific features and benefits they offer. Determine which variant best suits your vehicle’s needs and driving requirements. Supplier Reputation Purchase from reputable suppliers with positive customer feedback and a history of excellent service. Consider the availability of customer support and ease of returns or exchanges if needed. Warranty and Support Ensure the rebuilt transmission comes with a comprehensive warranty to protect your investment. Check what kind of post-purchase support the supplier offers—this can be crucial if issues arise after installation. Taking these factors into account will help you find a G56 manual transmission that not only fits your vehicle but also provides reliability and peace of mind for years to come. What makes the G56-R2 transmission suitable for extreme towing and hauling? Unleashing Unmatched Power: The G56-R2 Transmission When it comes to extreme towing and hauling, the G56-R2 transmission stands out as a powerhouse. But what exactly makes it the go-to choice for handling such heavy-duty tasks? Advanced Component Upgrades At the core of the G56-R2’s strength are its billet input and intermediate shafts. These vital components have been upgraded from their standard counterparts, offering enhanced durability. This means they can effortlessly manage increased torque and stress without faltering, crucial for any extreme towing or hauling operation. Built for Reliability Reliability is paramount when you’re dealing with such high-stakes activities. The G56-R2 doesn’t just promise performance; it delivers consistently through improved structural integrity. The reinforced components ensure that each shift is smooth, and the transmission operates efficiently for prolonged periods under intense conditions. Perfect for Heavy Loads Designed with heavy-duty use in mind, the G56-R2 transmission excels where others might waver. Whether you’re hauling oversized loads or maneuvering through challenging terrains, its robust construction provides the resilience needed to ensure seamless towing and hauling experiences. In summary, the G56-R2 is specially engineered to provide the strength, reliability, and efficiency required to meet the rigorous demands of extreme towing and hauling, making it a truly formidable component for any serious vehicle undertaking these tasks. What is the G56 transmission known for, and why is it popular among Dodge truck owners? The G56 transmission stands out as a renowned 6-speed manual gearbox, particularly favored by enthusiasts of Dodge trucks. Notable Strengths Durability: One of the key attributes of the G56 transmission is its robust construction. Built to endure and perform under stress, it’s highly reliable for intense activities. High Performance: Specifically designed to cater to heavy-duty needs, this transmission handles towing and hauling with ease. Its ability to manage significant loads without compromising on performance makes it an ideal choice. Why Choose the G56? Truck owners often prioritize components that promise longevity and powerful performance. The G56 transmission checks both boxes, offering a blend of strength and capability that aligns well with the demands of truck driving. In summary, its blend of ruggedness and efficiency makes the G56 transmission a preferred option for those who need a reliable partner in their heavy-duty journeys. What benefits do billet input and intermediate shafts provide in the G56- R2 transmission? Unleashing the Power of Billet Components in the G56-R2 Transmission When considering a transmission upgrade, the G56-R2 sets itself apart with the inclusion of billet input and intermediate shafts. But what exactly do these components bring to the table? Enhanced Strength and Durability Billet shafts are crafted from a single piece of metal, making them inherently stronger than their cast counterparts. This construction method increases the overall durability of the transmission, ensuring it can withstand greater stress and pressure without failing. Improved Reliability for Extreme Conditions For those involved in heavy-duty towing and hauling, reliability is non-negotiable. The billet input and intermediate shafts in the G56-R2 deliver exceptional performance in demanding situations, reducing the risk of wear and tear, and extending the transmission’s lifespan. Smoother Performance Thanks to their precision-engineered design, billet components contribute to a smoother operation. This results in not only enhanced performance during rigorous use but also a more seamless driving experience overall. By opting for the G56-R2 transmission with billet input and intermediate shafts, users invest in a product that offers superior strength, reliability, and performance tailored to meet the challenges of extreme applications. How does the G56-R2 transmission differ from the G56-R1? When comparing the G56-R2 to the G56-R1, there are a few key distinctions that stand out. Both models share a solid foundation, but the G56-R2 takes performance to the next level with some critical enhancements. Enhanced Components: The G56-R2 features billet input and intermediate shafts. These components are not standard in the G56-R1 and are specifically designed to offer superior strength and durability. Superior Strength and Reliability: Designed with extreme towing and hauling in mind, the G56-R2 is built to endure the rigorous demands associated with heavy loads. The robust construction reduces wear and tear, ensuring long-term reliability. In summary, while the G56-R1 provides a reliable performance baseline, the G56-R2 is the go-to choice for those needing extra durability and resilience for challenging tasks. Whether you’re towing heavy trailers or transporting massive loads, the G56-R2 is engineered to handle it all with ease. What components are included in the G56-R1 transmission option? The G56-R1 transmission option comes equipped with a comprehensive set of brand-new components, ensuring its reliability and performance. Key elements included are: Fresh bearings to enhance smooth operation. Updated synchronizers to improve gear shifting. New seals and gaskets to prevent leaks and maintain optimal functioning. This selection of components ensures you receive a thoroughly reconstructed transmission that is ready to perform at its peak. What options are available for rebuilt G56 transmissions? When considering rebuilt G56 transmissions, there are two primary choices catering to different needs and usage levels. Standard Option: G56-R1 The G56-R1 is a robust choice for those in search of a dependable replacement. This version includes new bearings, synchronizers, seals, and gaskets. It’s an ideal solution if you’re looking to enhance the performance of your daily driver or work truck without compromising on durability. Upgrade Option: G56-R2 For those who need a bit more power and resilience, the G56-R2 steps up the game. Along with all the features found in the standard G56-R1, it incorporates billet input and intermediate shafts. These enhancements are specifically designed to boost strength and reliability, making this option well-suited for extreme towing and hauling situations. Whether you need a transmission for everyday use or heavy-duty tasks, these rebuilt G56 transmission options offer quality and performance to meet your requirements. Why might a G56 transmission need to be rebuilt over time? A G56 transmission, renowned for its robustness and ability to handle heavy-duty towing and hauling tasks, is not immune to wear over time. As impressive as its durability is, continuous usage in demanding conditions can stress its components. This stress leads to gradual degradation, necessitating a rebuild. Reasons for a G56 Transmission Rebuild: Constant Load Pressure: Regular towing and transporting hefty loads puts immense pressure on the transmission, causing parts to wear out faster than they would under lighter usage. Heat Generation: Heavy-duty use often generates excess heat, which can deteriorate internal components and compromise their effectiveness. Component Fatigue: Over time, even the strongest components experience fatigue from continual use, reducing the overall efficiency and performance of the transmission. Fluid Breakdown: The transmission fluid, essential for lubrication and temperature control, can degrade, leading to increased friction and potential damage. External Factors: External elements like poor maintenance practices, harsh driving conditions, or inadequate fluid levels can further accelerate wear. Rebuilding the transmission restores its functionality by replacing worn-out parts, thereby extending its lifespan and ensuring optimal performance. Why is it important to have a reliable and durable transmission? Now it’s the Golden56. I left the transfer case on the back of the G56 and installed it as a whole unit, which isn’t the easiest but it saves some time. Most of the swap is pretty straightforward, so if you can swap a clutch, then you can do the swap. Why Reliability Matters Understanding the importance of a reliable and durable transmission is crucial for any vehicle owner. A dependable transmission ensures that your truck operates smoothly, delivering consistent performance and reducing the risk of unexpected breakdowns. This reliability is what makes products like the G56 a popular choice among enthusiasts and professionals alike. Having a transmission you can trust means more time on the road and less time worrying about repairs. Getting Started with the Swap Wiring info is all over in this group (Cummins Forum, Facebook). Grounding one pin from the auto harness is all it takes to get the truck to start. The hardest/most time-consuming part is building a remote shifter if you want to keep the business console. I had all the parts in my scrap-metal bin and some leftover Heim joints and weld-in bungs from other projects that worked for the remote shifter. There are lots of different ways to do the shifter, but this worked for me. I had to cut out the rear air duct to make the shifter work and replace it with some 4-inch dryer vent ducting. Roughly 4 feet will work. A little foil tape and some zip ties, and it’ll all clear nicely. I chose to use up some leftover Killmat inside the console to help deaden some noise. This is not necessary but every little bit helps. By ensuring your transmission is both reliable and durable, you not only enhance the performance of your vehicle but also safeguard your investment in the long run. A robust transmission like the G56 not only meets these needs but also provides peace of mind, knowing you can tackle any road with confidence. Why is having a reliable and durable transmission important? A reliable and durable transmission is crucial because it ensures the smooth operation and longevity of a vehicle, minimizing breakdowns and maintenance costs for the owner. Can the 68rfe adapter plate be used with the G56 transmission? Using the 68RFE Adapter Plate with the G56 Transmission Question: Can the 68RFE adapter plate be used with the G56 transmission? Yes, the 68RFE adapter plate can indeed be paired with the G56 transmission. This combination has been implemented successfully by many enthusiasts over the years. Real-World Experience Long-Term Use: Users have reported utilizing this setup since as early as 2012, maintaining reliable performance without noticeable issues. Maintenance Insights: Over several years and through multiple clutch replacements, no adverse effects or damage have been detected on any components linked to the adapter plate. Important Considerations Compatibility: Ensure the adapter plate and related components are properly aligned and securely fitted to avoid issues. Installation: Professional installation or expert guidance is recommended to optimize performance and extend the lifespan of both the adapter plate and transmission. Regular Inspections: Periodically inspect the system when performing vehicle maintenance to catch any potential issues early. This proven combination continues to be a popular choice for those looking to swap their transmissions effectively. Can the flywheel housing from a 68rfe be used on a G56 transmission? Compatibility of 68RFE Flywheel Housing with G56 Transmission If you’re considering using the flywheel housing from a 68RFE transmission on a G56 transmission, you’re in luck. It’s possible, but there are a few considerations to keep in mind to ensure a smooth installation. Installation Tips: Adapter Plate: The 68RFE adapter plate is compatible and can bolt directly onto the G56 transmission without significant issues. Flywheel Type: Flexplate: If your setup includes a flexplate, mount it to the transmission before coupling it with the flywheel. This can significantly simplify the process and reduce the effort required when aligning it with the flexplate. Hybrid Flywheels: If you have a hybrid flywheel system that combines aspects of both a flexplate and a traditional flywheel, it can also work. However, it’s important to verify the specific setup to avoid any complications. Duel Mass Flywheel: Note that the configuration mentioned here does not include a Dual Mass Flywheel, which might require additional adjustments or a different approach. By following these guidelines, you can effectively use the 68RFE flywheel housing on a G56 transmission, ensuring compatibility and a more straightforward installation. How do the adapter plates for the 68rfe and G56 transmissions compare? Comparison of Adapter Plates for 68rfe and G56 Transmissions When comparing the adapter plates for the 68rfe and G56 transmissions, there are notable differences to consider. Size Differences: The adapter plate for the G56 transmission measures about 6 cm in width, while the 68rfe’s adapter plate is slightly bulkier, coming in at nearly 7 cm. This difference in size can impact the available space and the overall fitting process. Support Brackets and Installation: For the 68rfe, the adapter plate includes support brackets that connect to the motor’s sides and back. These additional supports offer more stability but can complicate the installation process. In particular, there’s a bracket at the top of the motor that may make aligning the transmission a challenging task. Removing this bracket before attempting installation could simplify the process and prevent unnecessary frustrations. Understanding these differences can aid in choosing the right transmission setup and ensure a smoother installation experience. What are the specifications for the output shafts and transfer case for the 68rfe and G56 transmissions? Specifications for Output Shafts and Transfer Case of 68rfe and G56 Transmissions When examining the output shafts and transfer cases for the 68rfe and G56 transmissions, there are key details to consider: Output Shaft and Transfer Case Details 68rfe Transmission Model Year:5 Engine Compatibility:7L Transfer Case:Model NP273 Spline Count:29 G56 Transmission Model Year:2007 Engine Compatibility:9L Transfer Case:Model NP273 Spline Count:29 Key Insights Common Features:Both the 68rfe and G56 transmissions share a 29-spline count for the NP273 transfer case. This indicates compatibility in specific applications, suggesting interchangeability in certain setups. Input Shaft Observations:Although commonly perceived as different, detailed measurements reveal that the input shafts of these transmissions can be similar. A practical test showed that the transfer case from a 68rfefits onto a G56, indicative of potential interchangeability, at least at the connector level. Practical Considerations:While the initial physical fit may seem compatible, a deeper examination, such as fastening and operational testing on the G56, is essential to ensure comprehensive compatibility. Conclusion The output shafts and transfer cases for the 68rfe and G56 have similar specifications regarding spline count, providing some measure of interchangeability. However, users should conduct thorough testing if planning to swap components between these two transmissions to avoid unexpected issues during operation. What are the differences in length between the 68rfe and G56 transmissions? Differences in Length Between the 68RFE and G56 Transmissions When comparing the lengths of the 68RFE and G56 transmissions, it’s clear there is a noticeable distinction. The G56 transmission measures approximately 29.25 inches in length. In contrast, the 68RFE is slightly shorter, coming in at around 27 inches long. Key Points: G56 Transmission: Approximately 29.25 inches long. 68RFE Transmission: Approximately 27 inches long. This difference of roughly 2.25 inches may not seem significant but can have implications for vehicle fitment and configuration. Always bear in mind that these measurements might affect compatibility with certain vehicle models. Are the transmission crossmembers for the 68rfe and G56 the same? Comparing the 68RFE and G56 Transmission Crossmembers When exploring whether the 68RFE and G56 transmissions use the same crossmember, it’s essential to delve into their design similarities and differences. Overall Crossmember Design: Both the 68RFE and G56 transmissions utilize a similar crossmember design. This component provides the necessary structural support to the transmission system. Differences in Transmission Support Brackets: While the crossmembers themselves are essentially the same, where these transmissions diverge is in the specifics of the transmission support brackets. These brackets attach to the crossmember and are unique for each transmission model, reflecting their different configurations and mechanical requirements. In summary, while the crossmembers themselves do not differ between the 68RFE and G56, the areas where they connect—the support brackets—do vary. This distinction is crucial for anyone considering a swap or replacement, as it influences compatibility and installation procedures. What is the experience of others who have completed a similar swap? This is what I did/learned while doing a G56 swap on a 4th-gen Mega Cab Laramie. Everyone asks what it costs to do a swap, and this is by far the cheapest way to do it. It’s definitely not the easiest as there is a lot of hard work involved. It may be better for some to just pay $10-15,000 to a shop to get it done, but this is what worked for me. My Approach I bought a whole running/driving donor truck: a 2007 Ram 2500 6.7 4×4 with a freshly rebuilt G56 AD and dual disc SB clutch and hydraulics for $6,500. This gave me every single part I needed except for the steering column surround, which I bought on eBay for $53 shipped. First, I stripped the donor truck of everything and sold off all the parts I wouldn’t need. At this point, I had sold 95% of the parts, made back $7,800, and still had roughly $1,000-1,500 worth of parts left to sell. This paid for the swap and any other little parts I ended up buying, although some are unnecessary for just doing the swap: New clutch and brake pedal pads:$12 Case of Amsoil synchromesh fluid:$238 RTV:$13 TDS PTO cover:$100 Transmission temperature gauge:$40 718 Heim joint:$35 Weld-in bungs:$25 Flap discs:$14 Zip discs:$5 Paint:$25 Transmission jack:$235 Zip ties:$5 4-inch dryer hose:$10 Wiring connectors:$5 Carrier bearing:$60 I sold off my 5-inch diameter one-piece aluminum rear driveshaft ($650) since it was 2 inches too long and went back to my original two-piece steel shaft that I cut down 2 inches myself to make it fit. Insights from Others While working on my swap, I found it invaluable to connect with others who had completed similar projects. Here are some insights from fellow enthusiasts: Choice of Transmission:Some users debated over the earlier G56 with a higher numerical OD gear versus the later G56 with a lower numerical OD gear. This choice can affect driving dynamics and efficiency, so it’s crucial to consider your specific needs. Transfer Case Considerations:The 271 versus 273 transfer case is another point of discussion. Many have wondered about resolving the 4-lo issue with the 273 t-case, which is something to keep in mind if opting for that configuration. Long-term Performance:Several users shared their long-term experiences, such as 2.5 years or 8,000 miles on their swaps, providing reassurance on the durability and reliability of the conversion when done right. My Process Continued I used the power pedal assembly out of the 3rd-gen, which is a direct fit into the 4th-gen. There are three wires to power the pedals, two that go to 12v, and one ground. It’s pretty simple to wire up. You can even temp power them and just adjust to where you need them if you want. I installed the pedals while it was still an automatic so there was one less thing to do and minimize downtime. Pulling the 68RFE is pretty straightforward, as is removing the flexplate and trans adapter from the block. I reused the trans adapter, flywheel, and clutch from the donor truck without any issues. This is a good time to replace your rear main seal if you need to, but I didn’t need to since the engine only had roughly 40,000 miles on it. You’ll want to cut the hole for the shifter in the floor before stabbing the G56. I drilled a bunch of holes from up top, popped out the sheet metal, and then used a flap disc to clean up the edges and smooth it all out. This let me only sling sparks down through the hole and not shower the inside of my cab. There is more than one way to do it, but this worked for me. I chose to clean up the G56 and the transfer case and paint it before installing. This is not necessary, but it definitely makes it look better. Now it’s the Golden56. I left the transfer case on the back of the G56 and installed it as a whole unit, which isn’t the easiest but it saves some time. Most of the swap is pretty straightforward, so if you can swap a clutch, then you can do the swap. Wiring info is all over in this group (Cummins Forum, Facebook). Grounding one pin from the auto harness is all it takes to get the truck to start. The hardest/most time-consuming part is building a remote shifter if you want to keep the business console. I used some factory holes already in the floor to mount the base for the remote shifter. One is threaded already, and the other just needed a rivet nut installed to match the other hole. It lines up close to the middle of the “cubby” hole in the console, which is where my shifter comes up from. I had all the parts in my scrap-metal bin and some leftover Heim joints and weld-in bungs from other projects that worked for the remote shifter. There are lots of different ways to do the shifter, but this worked for me. I had to cut out the rear air duct to make the shifter work and replace it with some 4-inch dryer vent ducting. Roughly 4 feet will work. A little foil tape and some zip ties, and it’ll all clear nicely. I chose to use up some leftover Killmat inside the console to help deaden some noise. This is not necessary but every little bit helps. The most expensive part of the whole swap for me was getting new tuning. I was hoping to reuse my Mini Maxx tuner to flash the computer with a manual file, but it will not work for a 2010-2012 Ram like it does on an 07.5-09. This tuning cost $1,200. This took care of the 4-lo issue that everyone has with the electric-shift P273. The truck is drive-able without tuning, but it will not boost right and will be in limp mode until the tuning is fixed. I drove two hours like this to get it tuned. Not fun, but doable. You could also ship off your computer to a company in California, and it will VIN program it to be a manual for $100 plus shipping. I didn’t want to risk losing my computer in the mail, and I also figured getting new tuning couldn’t hurt since the Mini Maxx stuff is pretty outdated nowadays. Incorporating insights from others and sharing your own experience can help streamline the process and avoid common pitfalls. Whether it’s technical advice or simply knowing there are others who have faced similar challenges, the community aspect is invaluable. Are there any specific technical challenges or considerations mentioned regarding the swap process? The discussion includes technical considerations such as the absence of brackets on manual adapter plates, which users have discovered during their swap processes. Has anyone figured out the 4-low functionality with the 273 transfer case? The article indicates that users are still exploring solutions for the 4-low issue with the 273 transfer case, suggesting it remains a topic of active investigation without a confirmed solution yet. What type of transfer case are you using, the 271 or 273? The discussion highlights a curiosity about the use of the 273 transfer case, especially concerning its functionality with the 4-low setting, although no definitive answer is provided in the article. What options are available for sourcing parts for a manual swap, and how much do they cost? I bought a whole running/driving donor truck: a 2007 Ram 2500 6.7 4×4 with a freshly rebuilt G56 AD and dual disc SB clutch and hydraulics for $6,500. This gave me every single part I needed except for the steering column surround, which I bought on eBay for $53 shipped. First, I stripped the donor truck of everything and sold off all the parts I wouldn’t need. At this point, I had sold 95% of the parts, made back $7,800, and still had roughly $1,000-1,500 worth of parts left to sell. This paid for the swap and any other little parts I ended up buying, although some are unnecessary for just doing the swap: New clutch and brake pedal pads: $12 Case of Amsoil synchromesh fluid: $238 RTV: $13 TDS PTO cover: $100 Transmission temperature gauge: $40 718 Heim joint: $35 Weld-in bungs: $25 Flap discs: $14 Zip discs: $5 Paint: $25 Transmission jack: $235 Zip ties: $5 4-inch dryer hose: $10 Wiring connectors: $5 Carrier bearing: $60 I sold off my 5-inch diameter one-piece aluminum rear driveshaft ($650) since it was 2 inches too long and went back to my original two-piece steel shaft that I cut down 2 inches myself to make it fit. Exploring Other Sourcing Options While buying a donor truck worked well for me, there are other routes you might consider: Purchasing a Parts Truck Parts trucks can be a goldmine for sourcing components. You might find these at online auctions or through classified ads with some patience. Here are a few examples of potential finds: 2008 6.7L Dodge Ram quad cab: $8,000 with a bad front axle but promising drivetrain components. 2007 5.9L Dodge Ram mega cab: $8,000 for a truck that had been rolled but with a drivetrain likely in good condition. 2004 Late Model 5.9L Dodge Ram: Estimated $8,000, albeit far away, with a serious rod knock issue. One-for-One Trade For those looking to minimize costs, a one-for-one trade of a 68rfe for a G56 manual transmission is an option, though rare. This can be an economical route if you manage to find a willing trade partner. However, if your 68rfe is in poor condition, rebuilding might be necessary, which could cost around $2,500. By exploring these various options, you can decide on the best path for your manual swap, balancing cost, availability, and your own mechanical skills. Whether you go for a donor truck or seek out a parts truck, understanding each route’s pros and cons ensures a smoother project journey. What fluids and specialized tools are required for the manual swap? ♣ New clutch and brake pedal pads: $12 ♣ Case of Amsoil synchromesh fluid: $238 ♣ 7qts manual transmission fluid ♣ 2qts ATF for t-case ♣ Loctite ♣ RTV:$13 ♣ High temp RTV (Re-sealing G56 shifter) ♣ TDS PTO cover: $100 ♣ Transmission temperature gauge: $40 ♣ 718 Heim joint: $35 ♣ Weld-in bungs: $25 ♣ Flap discs: $14 ♣ Zip discs: $5 ♣ Paint: $25 ♣ Transmission jack: $235 ♣ Zip ties: $5 ♣ 4-inch dryer hose: $10 ♣ Wiring connectors: $5 ♣ Carrier bearing: $60 Specialized Tools Required: 14mm Allen (G56 fluid drain) Cummins barring tool E12 Socket Clutch alignment tool (SB 3250 kit) This comprehensive list ensures you have everything you need for a successful manual swap. From fluids and specialized tools to additional components and general supplies, you’re fully equipped to tackle the job with confidence. Are there any specific sealing or adhesive products needed? Yes, you will need Loctite for securing fasteners and a high-temperature RTV for re-sealing components like the G56 shifter. How can you troubleshoot and resolve the issue of 4Lo not working with a NP-273 T-case after a swap? Most of the swap is pretty straightforward, so if you can swap a clutch, then you can do the swap. Wiring info is all over in various groups and forums. Grounding one pin from the auto harness is all it takes to get the truck to start. The hardest, most time-consuming part is building a remote shifter if you want to keep the business console. However, when it comes to the NP-273 transfer case, you might face issues with getting 4Lo to work post-swap. This problem often ties back to the 68rfe harness, where an open wire might be hindering the shift into 4Lo. Tackling this issue involves: Identifying the open wire: Check the connections and ensure all necessary wires are correctly linked. Testing the harness: Use a multimeter to verify continuity and correct any breaks. Rewiring if necessary: Sometimes, rerouting or replacing faulty wires can resolve the issue. Balancing these tasks with other commitments, like school, can be challenging, but dedicating time to sort out these details can lead to success. Keep the community updated with your progress, as sharing solutions can help others facing similar challenges. What steps are being taken to diagnose or fix the problem? The steps include examining the wiring associated with the 68rfe harness to determine its impact on the 4Lo functionality. Is there a plan to resolve the 4Lo issue? Yes, there is a plan to investigate and resolve the 4Lo problem by the end of the year. What might be causing the 4Lo not to work? The potential issue could be an open wire in the 68rfe harness that is necessary for the NP-273 transfer case to engage 4Lo. What parts are needed for a manual swap from 68rfe to G56? I bought a whole running/driving donor truck: a 2007 Ram 2500 6.7 4×4 with a freshly rebuilt G56 AD and dual disc SB clutch and hydraulics for $6,500. This gave me every single part I needed except for the steering column surround, which I bought on eBay for $53 shipped. First, I stripped the donor truck of everything and sold off all the parts I wouldn’t need. At this point, I had sold 95% of the parts, made back $7,800, and still had roughly $1,000-1,500 worth of parts left to sell. This paid for the swap and any other little parts I ended up buying, although some are unnecessary for just doing the swap: New clutch and brake pedal pads: $12 Case of Amsoil synchromesh fluid: $238 RTV: $13 TDS PTO cover: $100 Transmission temperature gauge: $40 718 Heim joint: $35 Weld-in bungs: $25 Flap discs: $14 Zip discs: $5 Paint: $25 Transmission jack: $235 Zip ties: $5 4-inch dryer hose: $10 Wiring connectors: $5 Carrier bearing: $60 I sold off my 5-inch diameter one-piece aluminum rear driveshaft ($650) since it was 2 inches too long and went back to my original two-piece steel shaft that I cut down 2 inches myself to make it fit. The swap requires a comprehensive parts list, which includes: Drive Train Essentials Engine to Transmission Adapter: Ensures compatibility between engine and transmission. Clutch Hydraulics: Essential for smooth clutch operation. Clutch and Flywheel: Dual disk for efficient power transfer. Transmission: G56 manual transmission. Transmission Support Bracket and Shifter: Secure the transmission in place. Interior Modifications Low Profile Center Console: To accommodate the new shifter. Shift Boots and Steering Column: Necessary for manual setup. Electrical Components Clutch Interlock Switch and Wiring: Ensures safe starting of the vehicle with the clutch engaged. Manual Transmission Wiring Harness: Connects transmission and transfer case sensors. Additional Parts and Fluids Gaskets and Seals: For leak-free operation. Manual Transmission Fluid: 7 quarts to keep the G56 running smoothly. Specialized Tools: Such as a 14mm Allen for fluid drain and a clutch alignment tool. I used the power pedal assembly out of the 3rd-gen, which is a direct fit into the 4th-gen. There are three wires to power the pedals, two that go to 12v, and one ground. It’s pretty simple to wire up. You can even temp power them and just adjust to where you need them if you want. I installed the pedals while it was still an automatic so there was one less thing to do and minimize downtime. By integrating parts from the donor truck with this detailed list, I ensured a seamless manual swap. The experience and planning paid off, turning a complex task into a feasible project. Are there any recommendations or notes on sourcing parts? Sourcing certain parts, like a manual transmission wiring harness, can be challenging and costly. It’s noted that finding used components may be a more economical option, offering practical advice for budget-conscious individuals undertaking the swap. What fluids and gaskets are necessary? Proper maintenance and installation require specific fluids and gaskets. You’ll need manual transmission fluid and ATF for the transfer case, along with gaskets like the OE Cummins rear main seal, ensuring everything operates smoothly and seals correctly. What specific tools are needed for the swap? Specialized tools are essential to complete the swap effectively. These include specific tools like a 14mm Allen wrench for fluid drainage and a Cummins barring tool, among others, ensuring you have the right equipment to handle the technical aspects. What are some common issues and solutions encountered during a manual swap from 68rfe to G56? Pulling the 68RFE is pretty straightforward, as is removing the flexplate and trans adapter from the block. I reused the trans adapter, flywheel, and clutch from the donor truck without any issues. This is a good time to replace your rear main seal if you need to, but I didn’t need to since the engine only had roughly 40,000 miles on it. Preparing for the G56 Installation You’ll want to cut the hole for the shifter in the floor before stabbing the G56. I drilled a bunch of holes from up top, popped out the sheet metal, and then used a flap disc to clean up the edges and smooth it all out. This let me only sling sparks down through the hole and not shower the inside of my cab. There is more than one way to do it, but this worked for me. Adapter Plate and Brackets When removing the automatic’s adapter plate, be aware that support brackets connect to the sides and back of the motor. The bracket at the top can make installing the transmission challenging. Removing this bracket beforehand simplifies the process. Cleaning and Painting I chose to clean up the G56 and the transfer case and paint it before installing. This is not necessary, but it definitely makes it look better. Now it’s the Golden56. I left the transfer case on the back of the G56 and installed it as a whole unit, which isn’t the easiest but it saves some time. ECM Flashing Considerations For those flashing the ECM, using a reliable tuner is essential. You might need to contact the manufacturer for a recovery file, which can take a few days and involve additional costs. After flashing, remember to reconfigure your tuner as needed. Wiring and Starting Most of the swap is pretty straightforward, so if you can swap a clutch, then you can do the swap. Wiring info is all over in various forums. Grounding one pin from the automatic harness is all it takes to get the truck to start. The hardest and most time-consuming part is building a remote shifter if you want to keep the business console. Steering Column Modifications If you’re converting the steering column from automatic to manual, it’s a straightforward bolt-on swap. However, converting a manual column back to automatic is more complex and requires tapping some pre-drilled holes. When pulling the steering wheel, unbolt the clock spring with just the airbag removed to avoid breaking it. Shifter and Console Adjustments I had to cut out the rear air duct to make the shifter work and replace it with some 4-inch dryer vent ducting. Roughly 4 feet will work. A little foil tape and some zip ties, and it’ll all clear nicely. I chose to use up some leftover sound-deadening material inside the console to help reduce noise. This is not necessary but every little bit helps. By focusing on these details and strategies, you can navigate the common issues and solutions encountered during a manual swap from a 68RFE to a G56. What are the estimated costs for a manual swap from 68rfe to G56? I bought a whole running/driving donor truck: a 2007 Ram 2500 6.7 4×4 with a freshly rebuilt G56 AD and dual disc SB clutch and hydraulics for $6,500. This gave me every single part I needed except for the steering column surround, which I bought on eBay for $53 shipped. First, I stripped the donor truck of everything and sold off all the parts I wouldn’t need. At this point, I had sold 95% of the parts, made back $7,800, and still had roughly $1,000-1,500 worth of parts left to sell. This paid for the swap and any other little parts I ended up buying, although some are unnecessary for just doing the swap: New clutch and brake pedal pads: $12 Case of Amsoil synchromesh fluid: $238 RTV: $13 TDS PTO cover: $100 Transmission temperature gauge: $40 718 Heim joint: $35 Weld-in bungs: $25 Flap discs: $14 Zip discs: $5 Paint: $25 Transmission jack: $235 Zip ties: $5 4-inch dryer hose: $10 Wiring connectors: $5 Carrier bearing: $60 I sold off my 5-inch diameter one-piece aluminum rear driveshaft ($650) since it was 2 inches too long and went back to my original two-piece steel shaft that I cut down 2 inches myself to make it fit. The most expensive part of the whole swap for me was getting new tuning. I was hoping to reuse my Mini Maxx tuner to flash the computer with a manual file, but it will not work for a 2010-2012 Ram like it does on an 07.5-09. This tuning cost $1,200. For those exploring alternative routes, consider the part-by-part approach. This method can total around $5,000, or $5,500 if you opt for a dual disk clutch. Another viable option is purchasing a parts truck, which typically involves an upfront cost of $8,000 to $10,000. The process of finding a suitable parts truck can be strategic. Searching online auctions or platforms like Craigslist for terms such as “6sp Cummins” and “Manual Cummins” with a price cap of $8,000 can yield results. Here are a few examples I came across: 2008 6.7L Dodge Ram quad cab long bed dually 3500 6sp ST trim Miles: 198k Condition: Bad front axle Price: $8,000 2007 5.9L Dodge Ram mega cab flat bed dually 3500 6sp SLT trim Miles: 100k Condition: Rolled 3 times but drivetrain likely intact Price: $8,000 2004 Late Model 5.9L Dodge Ram quad cab long bed 2500 6sp Laramie trim Miles: 140k Condition: Serious rod knock Price: $8,000 These examples illustrate the spectrum of choices and costs associated with a manual swap. Whether opting for a donor truck or piecing together parts, each approach offers unique advantages and challenges to consider. What are some common search terms to use when looking for parts trucks? Useful search terms include “6sp Cummins,” “6 Speed Cummins,” and “Manual Cummins,” which can help narrow down the options when searching for parts trucks online. Where can one find parts trucks or auctions for them? Parts trucks can be found through online auction sites like CoPart, although purchasing might require a dealer’s license. Additionally, platforms like Craigslist can be useful for locating these vehicles nationwide. What are the ECM flashing options for a manual swap from 68rfe to G56? The most expensive part of the whole swap for me was getting new tuning. I was hoping to reuse my Mini Maxx tuner to flash the computer with a manual file, but it will not work for a 2010-2012 Ram like it does on an 07.5-09. This tuning cost $1,200. This took care of the 4-lo issue that everyone has with the electric-shift P273. The truck is drive-able without tuning, but it will not boost right and will be in limp mode until the tuning is fixed. I drove two hours like this to get it tuned. Not fun, but doable. You could also ship off your computer to a company called ARES in California, and it will VIN program it to be a manual for $100 plus shipping. If you’re exploring other ECM flashing options for a manual swap, consider using a tuner that allows for manual recovery. One popular choice involves using a tuner to flash the ECM, a process that typically includes contacting the company for a manual recovery file. This service might take about 2-3 days to receive and could cost around $120. Key Considerations: Recovery File: After flashing, you might need to update the tuner back to its original state. Limitations: Be aware that some tuners may not support reinstallation of certain tunes, requiring additional steps to obtain the necessary files online. By understanding these options, you can better navigate the tuning landscape, ensuring your swap process is as smooth as possible. What factors should be considered when deciding between upgrading a G56 transmission or swapping it for another model? When deciding whether to upgrade a G56 transmission or swap it for a different model, several key factors should be taken into account to make an informed decision. Material Strength and Durability Case Material: The G56 transmission has an aluminum case, which is more prone to heat build-up and may not handle excessive torque as effectively as other options. In contrast, a model with a cast iron case like the NV5600 generally provides a more robust structure, allowing it to withstand higher torque levels. Driving Conditions and Use Driving Demands: Assess how you plan to use your vehicle. If your driving involves heavy towing or high-performance scenarios, the NV5600 could be better suited due to its enhanced durability. Daily Commute vs. Heavy-Duty Work: Lighter, everyday use may not require a full transmission swap, while more intense use might. Cost and Upgrades Short-Term Fixes: Upgrading components like the support brace or using a higher-quality lubricant can extend the G56’s lifespan in the short term. Investment in a Swap: Consider whether the initial investment for a swap is justified by your long-term usage needs and budget. Longevity and Maintenance Future Maintenance: A swap to a stronger model may reduce long-term maintenance costs associated with repeated repairs of a less durable transmission. By weighing these factors, you can determine whether upgrading your existing G56 or swapping for a more durable transmission model aligns with your vehicle use and maintenance strategy. What are some common problems associated with the G56 transmission when used aggressively? Common Problems with the G56 Transmission Under Aggressive Use The G56 transmission, when pushed beyond its limits, particularly in high-performance scenarios like drag racing, tends to face several issues. Here’s a detailed look at these common problems: Vulnerability at High Horsepower Levels: The design of the G56 struggles at higher torque outputs, especially beyond 500 horsepower. This can lead to significant weaknesses in the structure over time. Aluminum Casing Concerns: The transmission’s aluminum casing is notably soft, which can result in twisting under the stress of aggressive use. This distortion can cause a misalignment of bearings and, ultimately, complete gear failure. Need for Additional Protection: To mitigate potential damage, a torque shield or brace, such as those from trusted manufacturers like Lazarsmith, is often recommended. This additional reinforcement helps safeguard the transmission’s structural integrity. Cooling Challenges: Overheating is a risk factor when pushing the G56 to its limits. Enhancing the transmission with auxiliary coolers can help maintain optimal operating temperatures and prevent overheating damage. Gear and Shaft Durability: Owners have explored advanced techniques such as cryogenic treatment of gears and shafts to improve durability. However, this solution depends on how much one is willing to invest. In conclusion, while the G56 transmission can be reliable for some users even beyond 800 horsepower, such cases are rare. Most users pushing their G56 to its limits will need to incorporate these preventive strategies to avoid failures. What are the potential upgrades for a G56 transmission in a Dodge Cummins? Upgrading Your G56 Transmission for Dodge Cummins If you’re looking to enhance the performance of your G56 transmission in a Dodge Cummins, there are several potential upgrades and considerations to keep in mind. Whether you’re aiming for increased durability or overall performance, here’s what experts suggest: 1. Clutch and Flywheel Upgrade One of the most impactful upgrades is the clutch and flywheel. A high-performance clutch can handle more torque and power, which is crucial when you’re taking advantage of the Cummins engine. Benefit: Improved torque handling and enhanced shift performance. Consideration: Ensure compatibility with other transmission components to avoid damage during shifts. 2. Torque Shield The G56 is known for its aluminum casing, which can twist under high torque conditions. Installing a torque shield can provide the necessary reinforcement. Benefit: Reduces the risk of casing twisting and subsequent damage. 3. Transmission Coolers High temperatures can affect the performance and longevity of your transmission. Adding transmission coolers can help manage heat much more effectively. Benefit: Prolongs the life of the transmission by preventing overheating. 4. Opening Oil Ports and Gear Cryo-Treatment For those willing to delve deeper into transmission upgrades, consider opening oil ports for better lubrication flow and cryo-treating gears and shafts to enhance their strength. Benefit: Improved lubrication and gear strength can withstand higher power levels. 5. Reconsideration of Manual Transmission For driving styles that include frequent racing or slam shifting, some experts recommend considering alternative transmission models, such as the NV5600, which offers a cast iron case known for greater durability. Alternative Approach: If continuing with the G56, regular maintenance and reinforcing with a brace coupled with superior lubrication can be essential for short-term use. By addressing these key areas, you can help ensure that your G56 transmission remains reliable and capable of handling the power of your Cummins engine, even under demanding conditions. Choose upgrades based on how intensely you drive and your performance goals. What are the benefits of using a torque shield for the G56 transmission? Benefits of Using a Torque Shield for the G56 Transmission Enhanced Durability: The G56 transmission is known for its limitations when subjected to extreme conditions, especially at horsepower levels exceeding 500. A torque shield significantly boosts the durability of your transmission by reinforcing its structural integrity. This added protection is essential for safeguarding the transmission’s components from excessive strain. Preventing Damage: Without a torque shield, the G56’s aluminum casing can become vulnerable to twisting and other physical stress. This can lead to misalignment that dramatically increases the risk of damaging bearings and gears. A torque shield acts as a stabilizing force, drastically reducing the likelihood of such failures. Improved Performance for High-Stress Activities: If you frequently engage in activities like drag racing, the transmission undergoes tremendous stress. A torque shield is crucial for maintaining optimal performance in these situations by minimizing wear and tear, allowing your vehicle to operate smoothly even under demanding conditions. Cost Savings Over Time: While the initial investment in a torque shield might seem significant, it can save you money in the long run. By reducing the risk of major transmission repairs or replacements, a torque shield can significantly cut down on maintenance costs, protecting both your transmission and your wallet. Peace of Mind for Enthusiasts: For those who push their vehicles to the limit, there’s added peace of mind knowing that important transmission components are protected. A torque shield provides confidence in your vehicle’s ability to handle high horsepower without compromising the integrity of the transmission system. In summary, incorporating a torque shield into your G56 transmission setup is an effective way to enhance durability, prevent potential damage, and ensure peak performance under stress, all while saving money on future repairs. How can additional cooling and lubrication help extend the life of a G56 transmission? Enhancing the Longevity of a G56 Transmission with Cooling and Lubrication For those pushing their G56 transmission to its limits, especially in high-performance setups, understanding the vital role of additional cooling and lubrication can make a significant difference in durability and performance. The Importance of Cooling When a transmission operates under high stress, such as with increased horsepower, it generates excessive heat. Excessive heat can lead to the breakdown of transmission fluid, resulting in inadequate lubrication and accelerated wear of internal components. By installing aftermarket cooling solutions, such as transmission coolers or enhanced oil pans with cooling fins, you can effectively dissipate heat. This reduction in temperature helps maintain optimal fluid performance and extends the life of transmission parts. Enhanced Lubrication Techniques Rapid and consistent lubrication is crucial for reducing friction between gears and shafts. One way to improve lubrication is by increasing the flow of transmission fluid throughout the system. This might involve modifying or enlarging oil ports for better distribution. High-quality synthetic transmission fluids can also provide superior lubrication and heat resistance compared to standard options. Additionally, some enthusiasts choose to cryogenically treat their gears and shafts, which can enhance their strength and resistance to wear. Balancing Performance and Reliability Ultimately, the extent to which you enhance cooling and lubrication depends on your specific needs and the level of performance you’re aiming for. Investing in these upgrades can provide peace of mind, knowing your transmission is better protected against the demands of high horsepower and torque, potentially saving you from costly repairs down the line. What modifications can be made to improve the durability of a G56 transmission? “Most of the swap is pretty straightforward, so if you can swap a clutch, then you can do the swap. Wiring info is all over in this group (Cummins Forum, Facebook). Grounding one pin from the auto harness is all it takes to get the truck to start. The hardest/most time-consuming part is building a remote shifter if you want to keep the business console. For those looking to enhance the durability of a G56 transmission, there are several modifications to consider. Start by adding a torque shield to prevent the aluminum casing from twisting, which can lead to lost bearings and damaged gears. Fast coolers are another excellent addition to combat heat build-up, a common issue with the G56. You might also explore opening up oil ports to improve flow, which aids in cooling and lubrication. For those willing to invest more, cryogenic treatment of gears and shafts can significantly boost their strength and longevity. If you’re contemplating a long-term solution, consider swapping to a built NV5600. Its cast iron case is less susceptible to heat and can handle greater torque, making it a robust alternative for high-performance needs. However, if sticking with the G56 is your choice, investing in a sturdy brace and high-quality lube oil will be essential for at least short-term reliability. These modifications, alongside the transmission swap details, ensure your setup is both functional and durable, tailored to your driving style and performance expectations.” How can one manage the installation and removal of transmissions without specialized equipment? How to Handle Transmission Installation and Removal Without Specialized Tools Installing and removing transmissions doesn’t have to require expensive tools or complex equipment. Here’s a practical approach using common, accessible tools: Tools & Setup Ratchet Straps: Use a small ratchet strap to secure the ends of the transmission and transfer case. This helps keep everything stable and aligned during the process. Floor Jack: Position a jack under the harmonic balancer or another solid support point to gently tilt the entire mechanism. This angle helps maneuver the transmission in and out with ease. Support Blocks or Stands: Consider using sturdy blocks or stands to provide additional support and prevent unwanted movement during the process. Steps for Removal and Installation Stabilize and Align: Securely strap the transmission and transfer case together. This unified structure prevents slippage and facilitates easier handling. Tilting the Assembly: Use the jack to carefully tilt the entire assembly downward at the rear. Creating this angle can alleviate pressure and make the removal or installation smoother. Check Fit and Clearance: Ensure that the transmission has enough clearance to be maneuvered out or into place. Adjust the position of your jack and straps as needed to find the right angle. Slow and Steady: Gently lower and remove the transmission using the strap and jack to control the descent. For installation, reverse the process by lifting and aligning gradually. By following these steps, you’ll be able to handle the installation and removal of transmissions effectively with everyday tools, ensuring you maintain control and precision without the need for specialized equipment. What are the technical details involved in performing a G56 swap on a 2016 Ram 2500? Technical Details for a G56 Swap on a 2016 Ram 2500 Swapping the transmission of your 2016 Ram 2500 to a G56 is no small feat. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the process, showcasing key technical considerations and challenges you might face: Basic Vehicle Specifications Model:2016 Ram 2500 Crew Cab Short Bed Condition:Tuned, with under-hood components left intact for emission requirements Previous Transmission:68RFE (third unit at 225,000 miles) Initial Setup and Components When starting the swap, you’ll require a full third-generation G56 4WD swap kit. Although there are many guides available, they often overlook specific, complex details. Driveshafts and Crossmember Driveshafts Compatibility:You can use both the factory driveshafts. Ideally, you’d shorten the front and lengthen the rear, but functionality remains unhindered in the initial setup. Crossmember Utilization:The factory 68RFE crossmember is compatible, but using the third-generation trans support is recommended. The original support might also fit with modifications. Push Button Start Issues If your truck features a push button start, anticipate complications. Regardless of grounding configurations within the transmission plug, the vehicle may not initiate. As a workaround: Use an auxiliary button kit. Map a momentary switch to trigger the starter solenoid, thus separating ignition activation from starting the engine. Clutch and Pedal Assembly Pedal Compatibility:The third-generation pedal assembly integrates smoothly with the fourth-generation framework. Pedal Installation:This can prove challenging, especially without professional lifting equipment. Transmission Housing Cutting into the transmission housing should be approached cautiously. Keep a one-inch border from the heatshield to ensure adequate coverage. Removing interior components like the center console or carpet is ideal to avoid accidental damage. Clutch Hydraulic Routing No additional holes are needed for the clutch pedal hydraulics in this swap. The firewall’s existing cover serves this purpose. Brake Booster Awareness Removing pedal assembly bolts risks dropping parts of the brake booster. Prepare accordingly to avoid engine bay surprises. G56 Installation Tips Separate Transfer Case:Avoid installing the G56 with the transfer case attached, as it complicates the process due to design constraints. Secure Handling:Pre-clean the G56 to improve grip during installation. Transmission Seating While seating the G56, consider manually turning the input shaft or engaging the driveshaft to align it with the clutch system for a smoother installation. Shifter and Center Console Modifications Use creative solutions to adjust shifter angles, ensuring the shifter doesn’t interfere with the Uconnect screen. Modification of the center console might be necessary to maintain functionality. Steering Column Nuances Disassembling the steering column requires precision, particularly with the shield’s T20 bolts. Patience and the right tools are critical. Tuner Coordination Coordinate with your preferred tuner before starting the swap. Ensure access to the necessary manual transmission calibration, as tuning availability can vary over time. By understanding and addressing each of these technical aspects, you can successfully navigate the complexities of a G56 swap on your Ram 2500. How can one address issues with the factory push button start not working after a G56 swap? Solving Push Button Start Problems After a G56 Swap Swapping a G56 transmission into a newer truck with high-end features can be challenging, especially if you encounter issues with the factory push button start system. Here’s a step-by-step guide to addressing these complications: Understand the Problem The main issue arises because the push button start system doesn’t recognize the new transmission. This often results in the ignition turning on without engaging the starter. Troubleshooting Steps Inspect Ground Connections: Ensure all essential ground connections in the transmission plug are secure. A loose or improper grounding could disrupt the signal needed for the push button start to function. Try Software Solutions: Use diagnostic software like AlfaOBD to attempt bypassing the start restrictions. Although success isn’t guaranteed, it’s an essential step to eliminate software-based solutions. Use a Workaround with the Auxiliary System: If the button still fails to start the truck, consider utilizing your truck’s auxiliary switches. Configure one of these auxiliary buttons to act as a momentary switch: Connect an auxiliary button (like Button 6) to the starter solenoid. Use the existing push button start to turn on the ignition. Press the configured auxiliary button to engage the starter. This approach essentially introduces a manual start function using the auxiliary switches, giving you a reliable way to start your truck even when the push button system doesn’t cooperate. Final Checks Ensure all connections are properly insulated and secured to avoid any electrical issues. Consider consulting a professional if the problems persist, especially if you’re not comfortable with vehicle electronics. By following these steps, you can effectively address the push button start issues following a G56 swap, transforming a frustrating situation into a manageable one. What issues might arise with a push button start when performing a G56 swap, and how can they be addressed? Challenges and Solutions for G56 Swaps with Push Button Start When performing a G56 swap in newer trucks equipped with a push button start, several issues can arise. Here’s a rundown of potential challenges and their solutions: Potential Issues Incompatibility with Push Button Start: One major issue is that the push button start system may not function properly after the swap. No matter your attempts at grounding or modifying the transmission plug, the ignition might not engage the starter. Difficulty with Diagnostic Tools: Common diagnostic tools, such as AlfaOBD, might not be able to bypass the problem, leaving the system unable to start the vehicle as intended. Solutions Bypass with Solenoid Jump: A practical workaround involves manually jumping the starter solenoid. By doing this, you can bypass the starting issue and enable the engine ignition process. Using Auxiliary Switches: Consider integrating an auxiliary button system. By configuring one of the auxiliary buttons, for example, button 6, to function as a key-on momentary switch, you can redirect this to the starter solenoid. This can act as a manual starter and resolve the engagement issue. Through these methods, you can effectively manage the complications that arise with the push button start during a G56 swap. This approach not only restores vehicle functionality but also maintains the ease of use associated with modern ignition systems. Is it necessary to cut a hole for clutch pedal hydros during a G56 swap? When undertaking a G56 swap, many enthusiasts worry about whether they’ll need to cut a hole in their vehicle’s firewall for the clutch pedal hydraulics. In many cases, this step isn’t necessary. Some vehicles come equipped with a removable cover on the firewall, located at the stock pedal assembly. This is particularly true for specific truck models, making the installation of hydraulic components much easier. You simply need to unbolt this cover to access the necessary area. Before you start, it’s best to check your vehicle’s setup to see if this feature applies. This small detail can save you time and effort in your swap project. Why is it important to contact a tuner before starting a G56 swap? The Expensive Part Isn’t a Hard Part! The most expensive part of the whole swap for me was getting new tuning. I was hoping to reuse my Mini Maxx tuner to flash the computer with a manual file, but it will not work for a 2010-2012 Ram like it does on an 07.5-09. This tuning cost $1,200. This took care of the 4-lo issue that everyone has with the electric-shift P273. The truck is drive-able without tuning, but it will not boost right and will be in limp mode until the tuning is fixed. I drove two hours like this to get it tuned. Not fun, but doable. Before diving into a G56 swap, contacting a tuner should be your first step. This is crucial to ensure you can secure the necessary manual trans calibration before starting. The tuning landscape has changed dramatically over the years, with many companies closing their doors or ceasing to offer certain types of tunes, such as deleted tunes. This evolving market makes it more important than ever to confirm that the tuning you need is available and accessible. Why is this so important? Avoid Delays:Knowing upfront that you can get the calibration means you won’t be stalled mid-swap. Market Changes:As mentioned, tuning companies have shifted their offerings. Without prior confirmation, you might find yourself without options once you’ve started the swap. Smooth Transition:Ensures your vehicle won’t be stuck in limp mode or face driveability issues post-swap. By reaching out to a tuner before beginning the swap, you not only save time and potential headaches but also position yourself to handle any unforeseen challenges the swap might present. How has the tuning market changed over time? Over the years, the tuning market has evolved, with many companies either shutting down or modifying their service offerings. This transformation highlights the necessity for vehicle owners to remain informed about the current market conditions and available options. What is the current state of the tuning market? The tuning market has seen significant changes, with some companies closing down or ceasing to offer certain services. This shift underscores the importance of verifying the availability of specific tuning services, like deleted tunes, ahead of time. Why is it important to contact a tuner before beginning a swap? It is essential to reach out to your planned tuner before starting a swap to ensure you can obtain the necessary manual transmission calibration. This step helps prevent complications that could arise if the required tuning is unavailable during the swap process. Why should the G56 not be installed with the transfer case on, and how can its installation be facilitated? Now it’s the Golden56. I left the transfer case on the back of the G56 and installed it as a whole unit, which isn’t the easiest but it saves some time. Most of the swap is pretty straightforward, so if you can swap a clutch, then you can do the swap. However, keep in mind that the G56 is notoriously difficult to manage due to its design. It’s not user-friendly when it comes to handling, making it quite a challenge if you try to “stab” it in with the transfer case attached. To make the installation easier, consider giving the unit a thorough pressure wash and degrease before starting. This will enhance your grip and help you manage the extra weight and awkwardness of the combined unit during installation. By taking these extra steps, you’ll find the process becomes more manageable, even if it’s not the most straightforward approach. What can be done to improve the handling of the G56 during installation? To make the G56 easier to grip and handle, it’s advisable to thoroughly clean it by pressure washing and degreasing before starting the installation. This preparation helps in managing the transmission more effectively. Why is the G56 difficult to handle during installation? The G56 transmission is challenging to manage due to its design, which is not conducive to being easily held or maneuvered during the installation process. How should the transmission hole be cut for a G56 swap, and what precautions need to be taken? You’ll want to cut the hole for the shifter in the floor before stabbing the G56. I drilled a bunch of holes from up top, popped out the sheetmetal, and then used a flap disc to clean up the edges and smooth it all out. This let me only sling sparks down through the hole and not shower the inside of my cab. There is more than one way to do it, but this worked for me. To ensure accuracy, consider using the heatshield pushout template in the trans tunnel as a guide. Be cautious, though—this template might be slightly too large for a factory 4th or 3rd gen shift boot to cover. I kept my hole with about a 1″ border from the heatshield under the truck to ensure a snug fit. While it’s tempting to dive right in, remember to take precautions. I didn’t pull my carpet or center console before cutting, which I wouldn’t recommend. I got lucky with the inside vent work and insulation, but it’s a risk that could lead to unwanted damage. Once the hole was cut, I chose to clean up the G56 and the transfer case and paint it before installing. This is not necessary, but it definitely makes it look better. Now it’s the Golden56. I left the transfer case on the back of the G56and installed it as a whole unit, which isn’t the easiest but it saves some time. By taking these steps and being mindful of potential pitfalls, you can achieve a clean and efficient installation. What are the risks of not removing interior components before cutting? There is a risk of damaging the interior, including vent work and insulation, if components like the carpet or center console are not removed before cutting. What are the size considerations for the hole? Maintain approximately a 1-inch border from the heatshield when cutting the hole to ensure it is correctly sized for the installation. What pre-existing features can be used as a guide for cutting? Utilize the heatshield pushout template in the transmission tunnel as a guide for accurate placement and sizing of the cut. How should the cutting process be approached to minimize damage? Carefully control the depth of the blade to avoid cutting too deeply, ensuring precision and preventing unnecessary damage. What tool should be used for cutting the hole? A 4-inch grinder equipped with a cutoff wheel is recommended for cutting the hole effectively. How can a business console be used during a G56 swap, and what modifications are necessary? To successfully integrate a business console during a G56 swap, several modifications are necessary to ensure everything fits and functions smoothly. Here’s how you can do it: First, you’ll need to modify the center trash can area of the console. Begin by cutting the bottom out to accommodate the new setup. Next, take the G56 shifter lever and cut both ends; this adjustment helps align everything properly. For this task, you’ll use a 1/8″ 2′ steel rod, which you’ll bend by hand to match the required shape. Once you have the right form, duplicate it using a 5/8 steel rod for added durability. After shaping, weld the original factory threaded end and mounting point holes back onto the rod to ensure a secure fit. Now, addressing additional modifications, I had to cut out the rear air duct to make the shifter work and replace it with some 4-inch dryer vent ducting. Roughly 4 feet will work. A little foil tape and some zip ties, and it’ll all clear nicely. I chose to use up some leftover Killmat inside the console to help deaden some noise. This is not necessary but every little bit helps. These steps will help you effectively integrate a business console into your G56 swap, ensuring both functionality and a cleaner, quieter ride. What materials and tools are used for the modifications? The modifications involve using 1/8″ and 5/8″ steel rods, along with welding equipment, to reshape and secure the components. What modifications are made to the G56 shifter lever? Both ends of the G56 shifter lever are cut, and the lever is reshaped using steel rods to fit the new setup. How is the business console physically modified? The bottom of the center trash can section of the business console is removed to accommodate the necessary modifications. What challenges might one face with the pedal assembly swap during a G56 swap? I used the power pedal assembly out of the 3rd-gen, which is a direct fit into the 4th-gen. There are three wires to power the pedals, two that go to 12v, and one ground. It’s pretty simple to wire up. You can even temp power them and just adjust to where you need them if you want. I installed the pedals while it was still an automatic so there was one less thing to do and minimize downtime. However, despite the seamless fit, the pedal assembly swap was the hardest part of the entire G56 swap. Even though the 3rd-gen clutch setup is essentially plug-and-play with the 4th-gen, the process isn’t without its hurdles. Challenges Faced Equipment Constraints: Completing the swap without a car lift or tranny jack added to the challenge. If you’re planning to do this at home, be prepared for some heavy lifting and maneuvering in tight spaces. Installation Complexity: While the wiring is straightforward, aligning the pedals and ensuring they function seamlessly with the new setup can be tricky. Consider installing the pedals early to reduce downtime and tackle any unforeseen issues. These insights should equip you with a balanced view of what to expect during the pedal assembly swap—understanding both the ease and the effort required for a successful conversion. What equipment might be necessary or helpful for completing the swap? The swap can be accomplished without using a car lift or a transmission jack, though this might increase the level of difficulty. Which part of the swap process is likely to be the most challenging? The pedal assembly swap is identified as the most difficult part of the entire swap process. Are components from the 3rd generation compatible with the 4th generation? Yes, the 3rd generation pedal box assembly can seamlessly fit and function in a 4th generation setup. How can factory driveshafts be utilized during a G56 swap? I sold off my 5-inch diameter one-piece aluminum rear driveshaft ($650) since it was 2 inches too long and went back to my original two-piece steel shaft that I cut down 2 inches myself to make it fit. When I swapped in the G56, I found that both factory driveshafts worked with my electronic transfer case. Ideally, you should shorten the front driveshaft and lengthen the rear one to achieve the best fit. However, I was able to install and run both factory driveshafts without any immediate modifications. It might not be the most aesthetically pleasing setup, but it certainly functions effectively. So, whether you’re looking to keep costs down or just need a quick solution, using your existing factory driveshafts is entirely feasible with some minor adjustments. This approach provides a balance between practicality and functionality, ensuring you can keep your vehicle running smoothly during the transition. What are the trade-offs of using the factory driveshafts without modification? Using the factory driveshafts without modification may not result in the most visually appealing setup, but they remain operational and functional in this configuration. Are modifications necessary for the driveshafts to work? While it is recommended to adjust the length of the driveshafts—shortening the front and lengthening the rear—it is not absolutely necessary, as both driveshafts can still function without these alterations. Can factory driveshafts be used with a G56 transmission? Yes, factory driveshafts can be utilized with a G56 transmission, even when paired with an electronic transfer case. Total 0 Shares Share 0 Tweet 0 Pin it 0 Share 0
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